Getting new windows installed is
expensive, but you can save hundreds of dollars in expenses by
painting them yourself. This step-by-step guide will show you how
easy it is to paint your own windows and save money!
You will need:
Painter’s tape (I like 3M brand blue
painter’s tape)
Masking corners (optional)
1” soft paintbrush (angled sash)
¼” flat artist’s paintbrush
Rag (an old washcloth is fine)
Interior latex paint in your chosen
color (gloss is best for trim)
Paint can opener and stir sticks
(should be free where you purchase paint)
Small empty paint can (very cheap and
easily found at hardware stores)
Paintable caulk (DAP brand’s “ALEX
FAST DRY” is my favorite)
Caulking gun
Dropcloth or large old towel or sheet,
as needed
NOTE: You should read the instructions
through at least once before you start, and probably before you even
shop for materials, so that you will already have a feel for what you
will be doing.
Step One: Prepare for Painting
Usually, surface prep for painting
involves cleaning and sanding, but you are in luck—the wood frames
and trim of your new windows are all ready to accept paint. Just wipe
down the surfaces (don’t forget the tops of the frames!) with your
clean, dry rag to get rid of any dust or grit that may be left over
from installation, then mask the windows for painting.
NOTE: Most new windows have a sheet of
clear vinyl clinging to the glass that protects it from smudges
during installation. Go ahead and leave it in place until you are
finished painting. It will continue to protect your windows from
smudges and stray paint smears.
If you have purchased masking corners,
these will be convenient to use when masking the inner corners of the
windows, but pre-fab corners are expensive! You can get the same
results by cutting or neatly tearing your tape at a 45-degree angle
and mitering the edges together in the corners, like a picture frame.
Don’t forget to mask around the outside of the window frame,
too—you may need to do some creative tearing to get around the
decorative trim of the sill, but the time you invest in getting it
right will produce the best finished results.
Step Two: Start Small
Normally when you paint a wall, you
remove the switchplates and outlet covers, and when you paint a door,
you might remove the hardware and replace it after, but removing
hardware from windows to paint is unnecessary, impractical and even
unsafe (remember, even if you’re using quick-drying latex paint,
you still should always allow at least a day for the caulk to dry,
and ideally for each coat of paint as well, and you don’t want to
have to leave your windows unlockable—or even inoperable.
Fortunately, there is an easy way to
quite literally get around this problem by using a small brush to
paint around the hardware and into the nooks and crannies, keeping
everything neat, ensuring complete coverage and making it easier for
you later. Use your small flat artist’s paintbrush to nip around
the edges of window locks, tilt release mechanisms and into tight
corners and the outside edges. I normally just walk from window to
window, carrying my little brush, my rag, and a quantity of paint
transferred into a small can, and do all of this in one big swoop.
Later you can use this smaller can to store your leftover paint,
instead of letting it dry out in the big can.
Step Three: First Coat
By the time your small-brush painting
on the last window is done, your first one will be completely dry and
ready to accept the first coat of paint. Apply this coat smoothly and
evenly, and don’t try to make it too thick. It’s completely
normal to still be able to see the wood somewhat through the paint.
Making the first coat too thick will make it sticky, gloppy and
uneven. Just glide it on, making sure all of the wood’s surface is
covered.
IMPORTANT: As you are painting the
sashes, make sure to move them up and down incrementally as you
paint, so they don’t get stuck shut. If you are in a tearing
hurry, you may apply caulk when the first coat of paint is dry to the
touch, but you should probably just knock off for the day and let the
paint sit overnight to “cure” and fully harden.
Step Four: Apply Caulk
This is a simple step, but it can be a
little messy if you let it get out of control. You can ignore the
painting supplies for the day; you will need just the tube of caulk,
caulking gun, and your rag to work, although you will want some
Kleenex, some tape, and some sturdy scissors to cut the tip off the
caulk tube. Insert the caulk tube into the caulk gun, tuck your rag
into your belt or pants pocket, cut the tip off the tube, gently
squeeze the trigger off the caulking gun a couple of times just so
the caulk begins to emerge at a slow but even pace, and…
…here’s my advice to avoid making
an unholy mess: Don’t use the caulking gun like you think you
should, letting caulk “flow” from the tip onto the window’s
surface. This is a great method when you are caulking in a long line
around the edge of something, but in this case you are only going to
be filling a series of small holes left behind from finishing nails
that are countersunk in the trim.
So, assume the following position:
Cradle the caulking gun in your non-dominant arm like you’re
carrying an Uzi, but with your hand near the end so that you can use
your non-working finger to cover the tip (otherwise caulk will just
keep oozing out in a long ribbon and you will be like Lucy in the
chocolate factory trying to keep it under control, wasting product,
creating a mess and hating life). Using your finger as a pressure
valve, let little bits of the caulk pop out, grab them onto the tip
of your dominant finger and pop them onto the little holes, smoothing
them out as you go. Easy Cheesy! You will probably have to wipe a
little caulk off your “stopper” finger from time to time, and as
the flow of caulk slows you will need to give it another gentle
trigger squeeze or two, but this is the easiest and least messy way
to apply caulk in small doses.
Let the caulk dry overnight.
Incidentally, the reason you are caulking between coats instead of
before painting is that it is much easier to smooth the caulk out
over the painted surface than the bare wood—you can even get
splinters from the wood, no matter how smooth it seems, so give it a
coat of paint first! Your caulk will leave little matte smears all
over your glossy paint, but those will disappear under the second
coat, so no worries.
Step Five: Apply Second Coat
This is the easiest step and the
most fun, because you will see your finished results quickly. Apply
the second coat evenly and smoothly, as you did with the first coat,
and you should have full coverage over the wood now, as well as
coverage of the caulked bits, resulting in a smooth, gorgeous
finished product. As with the first coat, don’t forget to keep
moving the window sashes up and down to keep them from sticking shut.
Allow paint to dry to the touch, then
slowly and carefully remove the masking: Lift the outer edges—the
ones that are not directly against the painted surface—first, then
pull toward the inner edges to prevent that annoying situation where
a tiny little edge of the tape tears off against the painted edge. So
this means you want to pull your vertical masking tape off somewhat
horizontally and your horizontal tape off kind of vertically, okay?
You’ll get the hang of it. Now you can peel off the clingy vinyl
(the manufacturer’s stickers should come off with it—any that are
directly on the glass are pretty easy to peel off).
Step back and admire your awesome new
windows! You did a good job and saved a ton of money—what’s not
to love?
Image credit: https://www.pexels.com/photo/unrecognizable-workman-installing-window-in-new-apartment-5691521/